![]() Anyway, I will keep trying to get the requested computer info. He was elderly and did not trust technology, thus the "show it on the wall" scenario. My father owned the film and would not allow me to have it professionally restored for fear of losing it. The original super 8 footage was pretty much destroyed so that no longer exists. In reviewing the movies, it seems like they are either very dark or washed out, if you know what I mean. ![]() Anyway the flickering is not universal so that will have to be edited out, it seems. Big help right? I would not have taken many extra steps however, as I do not like to add complexity based on my limited skills. I'm not recalling the process used for the conversion to mp4. As I recall, and this was 22 years ago, the computer that I had would not play the VOB files, thus the conversion. I have not yet been able to locate the VOB files. Everything was old, especially the film circa 1950-60's. The projector for the film was adjusted as best that could be done at the time. Will have to figure that out before more info can be given. I see John CB has already replied to your post! However, other users may well have more "positive" points to make! Sorry to ask so many questions but I fear that, unless you are able to re-digitise your original film footage, i.e., start the process from the beginning again, there may be little you can do to improve your footage. It can also help very much in reducing picture flicker but, from what you write, it seems your footage may be suffering from being projected at the incorrect speed, which is not what is usually meant by the term "flicker". It is not "cheap" - there is a trial version - but if you encounter "noise" problems in video footage it is, in my experience, one of the best for removing such noise. If your footage was simply affected by "picture noise" I would, without hesitation, recommend you look at and try out NeatVideo as a plug-in to MEP. (The current latest version is MEP 2022, version 21.0.2.130.) I know that MEP 2022 is certified to run under Win 11, I am not sure about MEP 2021. And the version number you have given shows that it is not even the last release of MEP 2021. ALL Magix Trial versions are in some way limited, with respect to the features of the full, purchased, version. One other consideration: the version of MEP which you have is, apparently, the Trial version. What exact process did you use for that? And why have you converted the VOB files to mp4? VOB files are MPEG-2, which MEP can read and edit without problem to add yet another conversion stage of VOB to mp4 (having already gone from analogue original to analogue VHS to digital ) since every conversion is bound to introduce some degree of quality degradation to your footage, especially since the starting point was film. VOBs are created when a DVD Video is created, so you must have digitised the analogue VHS footage and converted it to digital for burning to DVD. You also say you then converted from VTS VOB to mp4. Is that the case? If so, I do not think anything can be done since the flickering was, in fact, "burned in" to the VHS footage from the start. That first quotation would imply that the projector you used was not running at the same speed as the original footage required. You say that the frames are not moving fast enough for continuity of the film display but you say you played on a wall and recorded with a VHS camera. I am not an expert on digitising film - there are users here who do this sort of thing, I will tag because I know he has considerable experience of the process - but I have various questions that occur to me from what you have written. Of course, this is not going to transform your extremely poor material into something good. You can get Video Pro X12 for a low price on HumbleBundle (5 days left). You may want to start again, from the source material.Īs far as editing the material, I use Magix Video Pro X as it has better controls for Brightness/Contrast, Color and Color Correction than Movie Edit Pro Plus/Premium, and it has meters to assist (Vectorscope, Waveform monitor, RGB Parade, Histogram). See this thread for the method and an example of the output. I used a Wolverine Digitizer to digitize my 8mm and Super8 films to 1080p. You have to take care of flickering during recording to the camera by adjusting the speed of the projector. It is usually impossible to make a terrible recording good.Įven using a transfer box will give mediocre results. You can do some adjustments for brightness/contrast and colour, but not a lot, especially about dark images that have no data other than black. ![]() ![]() There is little that can be done about flickering. The transfer method - " Played on a wall and recorded with a VHS camera in 1990's" - is about the worst way to do this.
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